The Bethany Skirt

It’s Winter, and I’ve gotten to wear my Bethany Skirt a couple of times this month. The Bethany Skirt pattern was one of the assignments in an online Viki Sews class in 2023. Viki Sews describes the skirt this way:

Bethany is a semi-fitted trapeze [aka A-line] skirt with a free-hanging lining. It….features a horizontal design line below the hips. There are waist darts and center seams both on the front and back. The skirt has front slash pockets, … and a vent in the center back seam. The skirt closes with an invisible zipper in the center back seam and has a… waistband with belt loops and fastens with a sew-on hook and bar closure.

Toile

Creating a toile (rough draft) was necessary to get a good fit. Viki Sews patterns are available in different sizes and heights. I chose a Size 38 based on my hip measurement, and Height 3 based on my height. I constructed 2 toiles from muslin (a thin cotton) to fit the waist and hips. The Viki Sews class videos and mentor helped me make pattern changes to get a great-fitting skirt. To account for my rather straight-up and down figure, I needed to widen the waist. I made these changes:

• Added 4cm at the waist, divided into +1cm at each side seam (1cm x 4) tapering to 0 at the hip notch
• Reduced the volume in the side seam below the pocket by 2mm on the front and back pieces for a more graceful line

These changes helped the skirt fit over the bum and hang perpendicular to the floor (if I’m standing straight). Learning how to widen a waist will help me in my next project.

Construction

When cutting out the final fabric, a gabardine twill from Style Maker Fabric’s Selvedge Yard, I ran out of material. I could have shortened the skirt, but what’s the point then? After a bit of fiddling, I shortened only the pockets. With the side seam changes, I admit, they are rather small.

I used hand-basting to make sure that the horizontal seam at mid-thigh matched front to back. Nothing like a hitch in the side seam to make something look off-balance.

The seams are sewn together, pressed open, serged, and pressed flat. The vertical and horizontal seams in the front and back skirt are top-stitched.

Wear With

The skirt pairs well with boots and a leather jacket. It would work well with office heels, but I’m not wearing those these days. The lining, with or without tights, makes it perfect for cooler weather. The skirt also goes well with my me-made Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket (below). A cropped, close-fitting jacket that hits at the waistband would show the skirt more.

What would you wear with it?

Although I struggled with the fit, I’m glad I made this skirt. It’s a perfect neutral staple to pair with many things!

Details

• Pattern: Viki Sews Bethany Skirt, size 38, height 3
• Main Fabric: Atelier Brunette light gabardine twill in Solid Pecan Pie, SKU 20768 (Style Maker Fabrics
• Lining: Theory Navy Blue Soft Polyester Lining SKU 326775 (Mood Fabrics)
• Sewing Thread: Gutermann 100% polyester, color 561 (Style Maker Fabrics)
• Serger Thread: Maxi-Lock Serger Spun Polyester Thread in Brass SKU SPT 444845 (Wawak)
• Zipper: #2 closed conceal, color 079 (Zipper and Thread, LLC)